Pages

Pages

Showing posts with label imperial Cholas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label imperial Cholas. Show all posts

Saturday, 27 October 2018

Stop 7: Darasuram

We came to the stone walls of the UNESCO site, with only the Vimanam visible from inside.
As we parked the van, we saw a long driveway leading in to the front gate of the temple.
We got out, and started walking, and after rounding the corner, stopped at the Nandi opposite the entranceway. A strange one, as it is outside the temple premises. To one side, the enclosure had been fenced off, as the steps there are supposed to produce different tones when tapped, and to preserve them, they have been cordoned off - like the iron pillar at the Qutb complex, Delhi, which was hugged by everyone, because of some myth around it.
After listening to Pradeep Chakravarthy give us the basics about the temple(built by Rajaraja II, in a style different to Rajendra's, fusion of the old building style(Aditya, Parantaka), with a brand new style. with very intricate motifs elaborate construction, wanted it to be the best by far, so vandalised a whole bunch of previously existing Chola temples, and took the best pieces from them-this is visible everywhere, wnhere you can see a difference in colour, and lines running through most structures.)
We entered, and spent the rest of the evening looking around. At certain spots, Pradeep Chakravarthy would stop us, and give us the significance of a certain carving.
While enjoying the art, and the magnificence, I was also looking for inscriptions.
I found some 18th century ones on the floor, but right till the end, never saw any proper Chola. But there they were, right by the entrance.
At one point, Pradeep pointed out to us some jaali work in front of a section of a mandapam skirting the wall. I went closer to have a look, and found a dark segment of temple behind it. In that area was an empty mandapam, except for 2 shivalingams, and a small structure on the floor.
We spent overall, maybe an hour, hour and a half, before the dark clouds started to cover the entire sky. We didn't notice it at the time though.
A few minutes later, it was time to leave. But some people wanted to go to Swamimalai kovil, and not straight back, so I took advantage of the confusion, and went to check out the ruined Rajagopuram at the back.
The Rajagopuram is a small distance away from the main temple, so i jogged there. The base is like any other gopuram. A small room, with a couple of pillars in rows, decorated. At the back, a flight of steps to the next floor. On top of that, instead of the regular triangular structure, or a roof, it opened to sky.
I navigated broken bottle pieces, and weeds, and climbed up the stairs embedded in the walls to the first floor. There, a more or less symmetrical design looked back from the other half. I climbed on.
Now I was at the top of the Rajagopuram, looking at Darasuram. I clicked a few pictures, and felt some water on my hand. Realising what was happening, I quickly clicked some more, of the Gopuram, and climbed back down. Then I ran to Appa, who had been waiting for me, and we both dashed for the bus, as it started to pour.

Location: Airavateswara, Darasuram


Image may contain: dog, sky, grass, tree, plant, outdoor and nature

Image may contain: people sitting and outdoor
The Nandi

Image may contain: one or more people, people standing and outdoor
A pano just inside the temple

Image may contain: outdoor
Ganas dancing. In the various invasions following the downfall of the Cholas, the temple was very badly damaged. Hence the different coloured stone blocks here and there.

Image may contain: outdoor


Image may contain: 1 person, outdoor

No automatic alt text available.
Even the steps are decorated!

Image may contain: outdoor
An 1891 November Thanjavur inscription in the floor

Image may contain: indoor
The highly carved pillars

Image may contain: sky and outdoor
The outside of the temple - the Vimanam

Image may contain: one or more people, people standing and outdoor
A pano from a corner of the temple

Image may contain: sky and outdoor

Image may contain: sky, tree, outdoor and nature
The damaged Rajagopuram in the falling light

Image may contain: outdoor
The inside of the Rajagopuram

Epilogue for the day: We got back to the resort fine. By the time we reached, it had stopped raining. We went back to our rooms, freshened up, went for dinner(some good stuff again, this time in a banquet room), and a little while later, headed back to our rooms. That evening, I had agreed to get up early, and go to the temple in kumbakonam before breakfast. As I got ready to sleep, I started having second thoughts about having to wake up so early, but brushed them aside, and slept.


Thursday, 26 April 2018

Travelling to thillai - 7: GangaiKonda Cholapuram



Taking a scenic road through various fields, and crossing the Kollidam, we made our way to an ASI site. Gangaikonda Cholapuram, or GKC, for short. Established by Rajendra Chola I after his father died and he became the emperor, he moved the capital away from Thanajavur, further North, as if in anticipation of his campaigns. For Rajendras Prasasti, or Meikeerthi, as it is known, which lists his achievements, talks of his conquering upto the Ganges, thereby earning the name Gangaikonda, "Taker of the Ganges". He conquered the Pandyas, the Cheras, took Vengi, the Andhra state to the North of his country into his own, though it remained nominally independant since its king Vimaladityan had married his sister, Kundavi, and when the king of Kalinga attacked and tried to conquer Vengi, he took his army to Kalinga, to take his revenge. But he did not stop there. He went on, to capture all the various kingdoms of Bengal, and took various kingdoms in modern Chattisgharh, Bihar and Jharkhand as well. There were even fringe regions of Madhya Pradesh that came under his rule.
Soon after he returned to his capital, after he had finished his raid, he went about attacking the Chalukyas, and is said to have ransacked their capital Kalyani at one point as well.
After a king in Indonesia appealed to him for protection as Rajendra had trade interests there, he went to Indonesia, Cambodia and Vietnam, and began colonising the countries there. They remained vassals under the Cholas till the end of the century.
GKC is said to have a Durga taken from Kalyani, and we were lucky enough to spot it. This durga has multiple arms, and is quite different from all the other surrounding sculptures.
Even though he moved the capital, and made an impressive temple, its said that Rajendra still had a little respect for his father, and made sure his temple's vimanam was smaller than the Brihadeswara temple's.

The temple has one central structure, with multiple side mandapams on the lawns. The central shrine is raised to a first floor level, and accessd by steps. The Nandi's head is at that height. Its enormous. There are steps going down to the ground on three sides, with inscriptions all around them on the lintels, the inscrtiptions running from the time of Rajendra to the end of the Chola line. The Pandyas had ransacked the capital when they were rising to power, and have damaged the entrance gopuram, leaving an inscription with their symbol of two fishes next to it.


The Kollidam river




Gangaikonda Cholapuram Vimanam, with Nandi in front and destroyed Gopuram in front of that

Remains of a Gopuram
The Dwarapalaka of an inner Gopuram





The inscription, with the fish faintly seen to the left


The route to the idol

A dwarapalaka to the sanctum, from one of the various entrances



Lintel inscriptions


The famous panel of Rajendra being crowned by Shiva himself


A side mandapam

A pano from the steps with the crowning scene to the left

The durga, taken from North Karnataka



Location: GKC
From here we went to the purpose of our trip: Thillai!